The white on white chikan has evolved to become a better piece of craft over the period of time. C’mon lets dig deep and see its evolution .

The Mughal rulers were greatly influenced by the Persian floral patterns. The indian artists used more flowy designs that stiffy formal Persian styles.

After the decline of the Mughal empire, many artists fled to awadh . In Awadh ,the craft flourished under the Nawabi influence. Ealier ,garments were s fragile that they had to be discarded after few washes.

During the British rule, thanks to the low priced milled textile,chikankari suffered. This resulted in exploitation of workers. With the British influence,designs became more formal and other items began to be created.

In earlier days , chikan was done on white mulmul cloth . Due to the shortage of mulmul and changing market trends, this work is done on –cotton, wool, chiffon, crepe and silk using contrast color threads.

The lifestyle of artists has also improved as rates of fabric has increased due to the hike in demand.

During industrialization, commercial copycats and imitations emerged. Fabric blends and machine embroidery was introduced to cut production cost . Small and big designer houses began to add crystals, zardozi and mukaish elements.

REF: retrieved from :


Picture Referencing :

  1.,novemeber8) Retrieved from:
  2. Rujuta Vaidya (2016,feb26). Retrieved from
  3. Sewa-lucknow (2005,may21). Retrieved from

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